On the coast, northwest of Lisbon, there is a small D.O.C. (Denominação de Origem Controlada) called Colares, first recognized on September 18, 1908. It is one of Portugal’s most ancient areas and it is entirely planted on sand. When phylloxera destroyed most of Europe’s vines in the 19th century, it didn’t destroy Colares. Their vines are all original, ungrafted, and, for the most part, very old.

An exquisite bouquet of fruit continues to dominate this 2017 Ramisco, begging to see how much longer it will age. This medium-bodied concoction emanates balance from beginning to end, bursting with tamed ripe red berries, earthy spices, and tobacco leaf.