The 2017 Corton Grand Cru Cuvée du Bourdon unfurls to reveal a classy bouquet of ripe cherries, licorice, spices and candied violets, with little hint of the savory complexity to come. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, tangy and youthfully firm, with a lovely line of acidity underpinning its concentrated core of fruit. Abel observes that efforts have been made to render this cuvée in a more elegant register, all the while retaining the distinctive profile and aging potential of these vineyards. This year’s blend is composed of some 60% Les Paulands, 20% Les Perrières and 20% Clos du Roi.