It's a loving version, you could say; all of its signal complexity reaches to you from within an embrace. This vineyard is existentially unique, as if it had its own magnetic field. Druids would have built their megaliths there. Maybe at night a UFO lands silently and the little space dudes get out and do some magic, I don't know. But I know of no other great wine that seems so unknowable, yet also so overwhelming.