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After a few years studying his land and getting a clear idea of what is best for his wines, Holger and his wife Gabrielle now make the finest Pinots -- Noir, Blanc and Gris -- in Swabia. The rules are simple. There is no dogma, just absolute pristine viticulture, and a belief in the idea that several days in the vineyard are preferable to a quick fix in the cellar, where Holger's touch is light indeed. The Weißburgunder "Scheibenhardt" comes from a small, exposed vineyard that juts out spectacularly over the village of Bickensohl. This is a real terroir pinot blanc, and marries its rich fruit with a crunchy, racy minerality that speaks not so quietly to you of the salty tang of the loess soils from whence it came.