Light, well balanced and nuanced throughout. Delicate at first with the light fruity aroma of fresh green apples. This soon disappears in a well-paced development to reveal a supple and savoury Mortlach core suffused with candied sweetness: a heady mix of blackcurrant, roast chestnut and treacle toffee. With water, it opens slowly with spicy notes of cedar and caramelised fruit sugars. Medium to rich-bodied. Cooling, thick and smooth overall. Cautious and creamy at first, with flashes of intense sweetness before an espresso coffee note develops. This is Mortlach at its most robust; rich and muscular, with a mid-palate in which tannins bring out cocoa, damson and a real earthiness to compete with a rich honey sweetness. Later, faint notes of balsam introduce a growing sandalwood spiciness. Coating, with a sparkling bitter-sweetness as found in a traditional cloudy lemonade or perfectly ripe raspberries. Ultimately drying and warming, with wood smoke or dried lavender and re-emerging cocoa nibs.